Suzhou

Aujourd'hui, vacances ! Au programme, une journée d'excursion à Suzhou, considérée avec Hangzhou comme des paradis sur Terre. On peut aussi appeler ce jour la journée Unesco, car les quatre jardins que nous avons visités sont classés au patrimoine mondial. Toutes les photos sont en lignes dans la galerie du même nom.

On est parti tôt le matin (train de 8h30, arrivée à 9h15), et on a déjà commencé en enfreignant les lois : on est parti à quatre avec un étudiante chinoise de l’université qui n’avait pas d’autorisation parentale pour voyager (!), autorisation rendue récemment obligatoire depuis la mort d’étudiants de l’université le mois dernier lors d’un voyage.

Une fois arrivé, nous avons commencé par visiter le Temple du Nord (Beisi Ta), un petit temple du nord de la vieille ville (pas trop dur à deviner ^^) célèbre pour sa pagode de neuf étages, qui donne une bonne vue sur la ville. Donc après avoir gravi les neuf étages à pied (pas d’ascenseur ici ^^), on a pu constater de visu que si la ville était célèbre, ce c’était clairement pas pour son architecture :p. Mais bon, pas grave, on était pas venu pour ça, donc ça tombe bien ^^.

On est parti ensuite en mode exploration à la recherche du Jardin de la Culture (Yi Pu), et pour ça on s’est enfoncé à pied dans les ruelles (hutong) de la ville. On a très vite compris que c’était un vrai labyrinthe sans grande logique, donc on a fait comme les GMD sur Matlab, on a appliqué l’algorithme de la main droite pour trouver la sortie :) (pour ceux qui ne connaissent pas, cela revient tout simplement à tourner tout le temps à droite, et quand on arrive dans une impasse, revenir à l’intersection précédente et tourner à gauche).

Du coup On a réussi à sortir, mais on a quand même été obligé de demander où était le temple parce que le fléchage était tellement incomplet que c’était impossible de s’en sortir tout seul. D’un autre côté, comme personne ne le trouve, il n’y a personne dedans, donc on était quasiment tout seul et c’était très agréable. Ça fait un petit moment hors du temps, calme et silencieux, en plein milieu d’un ville pleine d’activité. Magique.

Nous nous sommes ensuite dirigés (toujours à pied) vers le jardin Huanxiu Shanzhuang, traduit littéralement par la Villa de la Montagne étreinte de Beauté ( !). Encore un magnifique petit jardin, à peine plus facile à trouver que l’autre (merci le routard), et qui a la particularité d’héberger un institut de recherche sur le travail de la Soie, avec notamment des ateliers et une belle exposition. Il faut savoir que certaines pièces complexes (comme le jardin exposé dans la galerie) demandent près d’un an de travail !

On est ensuite allé dans la rue centrale de la ville, (Guanqian Jie) rue piétonne très animée avec plein de boutiques et de restaus. J’y ai encore pu faire ma star en prenant une photo avec un bébé au milieu de la rue :). Après un bon repas à 15 kuais (merci routard), nous sommes allés visiter le temple de Xuan Miao, mais rien d’exceptionnel de ce côté-là (on commence à connaître et on a vu les plus beaux de Chine à Beijing), à part quelques statues improbables (cf pictures).

On a continué la journée en allant visiter les deux plus fameux parcs de la Ville, le Jardin de la Forêt du Lion (Shizi Lin), et le Jardin de l'Humble Administrateur (Zhuozhengyuan). Alors là, c’était plus la même histoire, on se serait cru dans le métro à Beijing. Du coup les jardins sont vraiment magnifiques, mais on perd le côté calme et serein, donc c’est un peu dommage. On a quand même réussi à se poser un moment dans le deuxième (le plus grand de la ville), car ça se vidait un peu à partir de 17h, et on en a profité pour faire un cours de chinois orienté insultes, ce qui était assez drôle (les chinois qui passaient devant nous nous regardaient bizarrement ^^).

Pour finir, on est allé se promener sur la PingJiang Lu, petite rue le long d’un canal qui héberge pleins de petits cafés-bibliothèques, concept nouveau et ma foi assez intéressant. Et pour s’occuper avant de rentrer (on avait été un peu présomptueux sur nos capacités physiques, on n’avait pas calculé que tout fermait à 17h30, donc on avait pris un train de retour à 22h), on a essayé de faire marcher la toupie volante que j’avais acheté un peu plus tôt, et au bout d’1h30 on avait quelques débuts de résultats.

Au final ça a été une journée très sympa, tout se fait à pied, les parcs sont magnifiques, mais le petit bémol c'est qu'au final ça se ressemble un peu tout (Yu Garden à Shanghai est un bon résumé). Néanmoins, ça devient vraiment magique quand les jardins sont vides et qu’on peut profiter tranquillement du calme et de la beauté.

A part ça, vous l’avez peut-être remarqué, mais depuis quelques galeries on joue à « Où est William ? », donc dans certaines photos (5 dans la galerie de Suzhou), en cherchant bien, vous pourrez apercevoir la tête de William qui me photobombe, donc chapeau à celui/celle qui les trouve toutes :).

再见

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