Dali - 2ème jour

Submitted by qperceval on Sat, 08/11/2012 - 12:16

Dimanche 8 juillet.

Par ce beau matin ensoleillé, nous sommes partis en direction de Cangshan, la montagne à l'ouest de Dali. Pour une fois, on ne pouvait pas râler que notre carte était mauvaise, vu qu'on n'en avait tout simplement pas ^^. On était parti dans l'idée de monter en télésiège, mais comme on ne l'a pas trouvé (on ne l'a pas vraiment cherché non plus, on est juste allé plein ouest depuis l'hostel ^^), on est monté à pied. Comme d'habitude en Chine, c'est payant d'accéder à la montagne (15/30 kuais), et il y a des escaliers en pierre partout.

Après une bonne heure de montée, nous avons rejoint la route principale, à 2500 mètres d'habitude, d'où nous avons pu profiter d'un superbe point de vue sur Dali, le lac et les montagnes alentours.
Nous avons ensuite rejoins le temple Zanghe pour manger, avant de nous lancer dans l'ascension du mont Malong, point culminant du massif à 4115 mètres d'altitude. On a croisé des allemands vivant à Dali qui nous ont indiqué la direction de la randonnée, au départ de l'Higerland Inn (auberge très sympathique soit dit en passant).
On a donc attaqué un petit sentier classique (tel un sentier de randonnée français) en direction du pic. Très agréable au début, il est devenu de moins en moins marqué, et la végétation autour est devenue de plus en plus abondante, si bien qu'après 1h30 de montée, on ne pouvait strictement plus avancer (on avait oublié la machette).
Même si on n'a pas pu rejoindre le sommet, on a tout de même pu profiter d'un très beau point de vue sur la région :).
La dernière demi-heure de montée ayant beau ne pas avoir été facile, la descente fut bien pire : on a très rapidement perdu notre pseudo-chemin, et on s'est un peu retrouvé en mode "man vs wild" à se frayer un chemin en se faufilant entre les branches et en avançant dans des lits de ruisseau, parfois à quatre pattes :s. Mais heureusement, au bout d'un petit moment, alors qu'il commençait à pleuvioter, on est tombé par hasard sur un chemin nickel, que l'on a suivi jusqu'à... notre point de départ -_-'. En gros on s'était planté de route dès le début... On s'est donc posé un moment à l'Higerland Inn pour se remettre de nos émotions ^^. On a d'ailleurs appris que le pic que nous avions tenté de gravir n'était pas le Malong mais le Zanghe, à seulement 4050m.

Nous sommes ensuite retournés sur la route principale (ça faisait plaisir de ne plus se prendre de branche dans la figure ^^) afin de se promener tranquillement en direction de Gantong Si, l'extrémité sud du parc. Ça a fait une petite randonnée de 10km (principalement en marche rapide, vu qu'on pouvait avancer) à travers une belle montagne avec le plateau de Dali en arrière-plan, donc plutôt sympa. On est arrivé au téléphérique (notre destination pour redescendre) 10 minutes avant la fermeture (la classe), mais il fallait acheter un ticket en bas, donc on n'a pas pu le prendre (moins la classe). De toutes façons on n'avait pas assez de liquide pour payer donc ça nous a évité une négociation foireuse ^^. On est finalement redescendu par un chemin sous le téléphérique (qui était inconnu des cartes du coin), en jetant auparavant un coup d'œil à la jolie cascade de Qing Bi.

Le chemin nous a paru prendre une éternité (alors qu'on a rejoint la base du téléphérique en à peine plus d'une heure), mais on a finalement réussi à rallier le monastère de Gantong (fermé), à traverser une ville touristiques devenue ville fantôme après 18h, à traverser un chantier qui s'interposait entre la ville et nous, le tout pour finalement réussir à prendre un bus en direction de chez nous. Mais comme on a réussi à descendre du bus trois arrêts trop tôt (c'était décidément la journée des bonnes décisions), il a fallu encore marcher une demi-heure avant d'arriver, et on était un peu au bout du rouleau ^^.

En conclusion très belle excursion, beaucoup de kilomètres avalés, mais la montagne était grandiose et les points de vue superbe ! On va encore bien dormir ce soir :).

Petite note sur les restos : en général ils n'ont pas de menu (et dans tous les cas pas de photos ni de traduction anglaise), donc on commande en prenant la même chose que les autres clients, ou tout simplement en désignant les ingrédients à mélanger. Pratique ^^.

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