Expédition dans le Shangdong (1/2)
Expédition du jour : le Shangdong, province située entre Shanghai et Beijing, avec au programme la visite du mont Tai et de la ville de Jinan.
On va donc commencé par le début, c'est à dire Taishan, une des cinq montagnes sacrées chinoises, au sommet de laquelle chaque empereur se devait de monter pour proclamer l’avènement de son règne sur l’empire du milieu.
Pour y aller, habituel train de nuit du vendredi soir, qui allait mettre plus de 13h pour parcourir 800 kilomètres, donc autant vous dire qu'il a passé quasiment autant de temps arrêté qu'à rouler -_-'.
Arrivée dans la brume, fusion avec la partie de l'équipe venant de Beijing, 4 baozis, des courses pour midi, 30 minutes dans le bus k3, et nous voilà au pied des 6000 marches menant au sommet du fameux mont (soit un peu plus de 1400m de dénivelé positif). Un bus parcours la première moitié, un téléphérique la deuxième, mais cela ne nous… regarde pas :). On attaque donc le grand boulevard-escalier sans trop de charme et assez peuplé avec un objectif : 3h pour arriver au sommet.
Un peu avant l'arrivée, on a pris un chemin parallèle plus petit et plus calme, mais arrivé en haut, on s'est rendu compte que ça nous avait fait esquiver la partie la plus intéressante de la montée. Pour laver notre honte, on a redescendu les 500 dernières marches pour pouvoir faire notre entrée triomphale par la célèbre Porte Céleste du Sud.
On a ensuite visité l'est du sommet où, après une discussion assez compliquée avec un paysan chinois, nous avons pris un petit sentier de terre très sympa, qui caractérisait bien l'expression ‘sortir des sentiers battus’. Mais après 20 minutes de descente, on a demandé au chinois qu'on suivait où allait ce chemin. Réponse : en bas de la montagne. Bon bah demi-tour... J'ai oublié de préciser que comme dans chaque montagne, toutes les cartes que nous avions à notre disposition étaient à peu près aussi utiles les étoiles pour savoir où on allait.
Une fois de retour au sommet, on a pu visiter quelques temples, sympa de l'extérieur, mais identiques à tous les temples chinois à l'intérieur. Ensuite s'est posée la question (importante !) du sommeil, que pour une fois on avait décidé de gérer en live, comme de vrais touristes :). On est donc rentré dans le premier hôtel qu'on a trouvé, qui nous a proposé une chambre à 1680kuais (oui il y a bien un zéro de trop ^^). On a eu plus de chance le deuxième coup, avec une chambre affichée à 920 kuais, annoncée à 460 et négociée à 260, donc plutôt pas mal. Pour ce prix on a eu droit à une private room avec deux lits, une télé, un lavabo, et un wcdouche (notez que je n'ai pas écrit wc-douche, car les deux étaient combinés, l'évacuation de la douche se faisant par le trou du toilette turc) avec de l'eau chaude entre 20h et 21h. Propreté globale un peu douteuse, mais draps propres, donc parfait :)
On est juste ressorti le soir pour voir le coucher de soleil, mais la brume était toujours là, donc le rendu ne fut pas tip top.
Juste avant d'éteindre, on s'est fait un petit point historique et on a entre autre appris que le premier empereur Qing (cf. Xi’an) avait proclamé la Chine unifiée depuis ce sommet en 219 avant J.-C. Et sachant que Taishan fait partie des 5 montagnes sacrées Taoïstes (comme Huashan), on s'est renseigné sur la différence entre bouddhisme et taoïsme (parce que quand on voit les temples, c'est impossible de les distinguer...). Donc la réponse n’est pas forcément convaincante, on peut juste dire que Lao Tseu (fondateur du Taoïsme) a été en contact avec des religieux bouddhistes indiens (aux alentours de 500 avant J.-C.), et que le mélange des deux aurait par la suite créé/influencé le bouddhisme chinois. Mouais, on n’est pas beaucoup plus avancé ^^.
Au final, près de 7000 marches gravies en montant dans la journée, un escalier titanesque vaincu, de beaux paysages (mais moins impressionnants que Huashan ou Huangshan), et un poil trop de brume pour espérer des photos magiques. Dodo à 21h, la suite demain !
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