Les Gorges du Saut du Tigre

Submitted by qperceval on Tue, 08/14/2012 - 22:38

Mercredi 11 juillet.

Aujourd'hui, grosse journée avec la traversée des Gorges du Saut du Tigre, grande randonnée le long du Yangzi (ça faisait longtemps qu'on ne l'avait pas vu) que les chinois (et le routard) font en 2 jours mais que pour une question de timing on allait faire en un.

On a donc pris un bus à 7h30 (enfin, le temps qu'il récupère tout le monde il était déjà 8h) en direction de Qiaotou. Si la première heure s'est bien passée, les deux suivantes ont été juste n'importe quoi : on a commencé par rester bloqué pendant 40 minutes parce que des dizaines de cars essayaient de se garer pour aller visiter une pagode en plastique, donc tout le monde essayait de se doubler, donc personne n'avançait, et les policiers chargés de la circulation se contentaient de regarder...
Sur la suite, la route n'était plus pavée que par endroits, et tout le monde continuait à vouloir se doubler, alors qu'on était toujours sur une route de montagne à double sens de circulation -_-'.

On est finalement arrivé à 11h15 à l'entrée du site, où l'on a dû acheter un ticket pour aller plus loin. Mais comme on était étudiant de moins de 24 ans, on a eu droit au demi-tarif à 33 kuais. Le bus nous a posé 500m plus loin, au pied de la randonnée du haut, et on a commencé à grimper à 11h40 avec une grosse inconnue : le temps nécessaire pour rallier notre hostel, le Tina's Guesthouse, situé à la fin de la randonnée. Sur la carte (toujours faite main...), il fallait 7h, mais le routard annonçait jusqu'à 9h et l'aubergiste de Lijiang nous annonçait 10h. La réponse dans la suite :).

La première montée a été assez sévère, et on avait beau avoir l'impression de doubler tout le monde, on a quand même mis plus de temps que les deux heures prévues par la carte, mais on a pu profiter de paysages magnifiques, avec vue sur les gorges en contrebas et les montagnes en surplomb. Splendide. Point notable : ce n'était pas un chemin chinois avec des escaliers en pierre mais un joli petit sentier de terre et de cailloux, avec des flèches de toutes les couleurs tracées dessus pour indiquer le chemin :).

Après 3h de randonnée, on s'est fait une petite pause repas (de 45 minutes -_-') à l'auberge du cheval (Horse Inn), qui nous a coûté la coquette somme de... 35 kuais. On n’allait pas trouer notre budget ^^.

Sur la suite du parcours, toujours au-dessus des gorges, on a pu croiser des villages, des champs en escalier, des chèvres et des chevaux acrobates, des paysans qui voulaient nous faire payer si on prenait des photos depuis les spots sympas, des bambous, des forêts, des petites cascades où j'ai réussi à atterrir les deux pieds dedans, et des poteaux électriques tout le long qui nous empêchait de faire de jolies photos.
On a croisé assez peu de monde sur le sentier, et majoritairement des occidentaux, les chinois préférant la petite balade au creux des gorges (Upper Tiger leaping gorge).

On est finalement arrivé à notre auberge à 17h40, soit après 6h tout pile de randonnée. Après un check-in rapide, comme il faisait encore beau, on est reparti sur les chemins pour rejoindre le Middle Tiger Leaping Gorge, 200 mètres plus bas, au niveau du cours d'eau.

À l'est de l'auberge, trois chemins s'offraient à nous pour descendre : le premier était barré par des paysans qui demandaient 10 kuais pour descendre et qui nous ont jeté des pierres quand on a essayé de contourner leur barrage, le deuxième était gratuit mais n'allait qu'à mi-chemin (beau point de vue néanmoins même si on se serait bien passé de la remontée), et on a finalement payé 5 kuais pour emprunter le dernier.
Une fois en bas, on a pu se rendre tout au bord de l'eau afin de ressentir l'impressionnant tumulte du fleuve, qui aurait éclaté n'importe quelle embarcation osant le braver. On imagine donc sans peine son débit au niveau du barrage des trois gorges, plusieurs milliers de kilomètres plus loin.
Tout au long de la balade, on a croisé très peu de panneaux d'indications, mais surtout des panneaux pour nous dire que tel petit pont ou tel passage avaient été fait par une famille de paysan du coin, et qu'il fallait payer pour le traverser. Au final, il faudrait compter en pleine journée au moins 30 kuais pour la balade, tout en hésitant entre qualifier les villageois de travailleur ou d'opportunistes...
On a bien sur eu le droit à la pluie sur le retour (mais elle nous avait épargnée toute la journée donc on ne va pas se plaindre ^^), et une fois arrivé à l'hostel après ces deux heures de randonnée supplémentaire, on était bien vanné :).

On a donc encore passé une bonne nuit, d'autant qu'on avait une chambre de 3 juste pour nous avec des vrais lits (pour 50kuais au total). On peut juste dire merci aux grillons chinois avec leur bruit de disqueuse qui nous ont réveillé à 6h le lendemain ^^.

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