Shaolin Si

Submitted by qperceval on Thu, 08/02/2012 - 12:58

Dimanche 1er juillet.

Ça y est c'est le grand jour ! Première étape du périple, la ville de Dengfeng, dans le Henan, et le célèbre temple de Shaolin Si. Pour s'y rendre, nous avons pris le train jusqu'à Zhengzhou, capitale de la province. Histoire de faire aventure, on n'avait pas pris de lit, juste des sièges. Du coup on a pu essayer de dormir, regarder le contrôleur vendre des toupies magiques, essayer de dormir, regarder les chinois jouer, essayer de dormir, regarder les chinois dormir dans des positions improbables, essayer de dormir...
Mais on n'a pas réussi (pas grave on a les trois prochaines nuit pour ^^). Il faut dire que ça manquait nettement de siège inclinables -_-'.
Petite anecdote, le contrôleur est passé fermer les rideaux vers 22h, mais ils n'ont jamais éteint la lumière...

On est donc arrivé comme des fleurs à 5h dans une ville déjà complètement réveillée (à part les voyageurs qui faisaient la sieste sur le parvis de la gare), et on a du faire la queue (!) pour acheter des billets de bus pour le direct Shaolin Si de 6h. 1h30 de trajet plus tard, nous foulions le berceau mondial du kung-fu.
Nous avons pu profiter quelques moment de la sérénité du lieu, mais dès 8h30 les cars de touristes sont arrivés et l'ambiance a quelque peu changée ^^.

Sur place, nous avons commencé par visiter l'imposant temple Shaolin, ainsi que le temple Shifang et ses 502 statues de Luohan (ou arhats, à vos souhaits), défenseurs de la loi bouddhique.
Nous nous sommes ensuite dirigés vers le training center afin d'assister à une démonstration de kung-fu donné par les moines. Et bien c'est les mêmes mouvements que dans Dynasty Warriors, mais en vrai ! On a notamment vu une performance d'un gamin de 10 ans, et bien on n’aimerait pas le mettre en colère...
Et on a pu vérifier une légende : tous les moines portaient bien des feiyue :) (pas exactement le même modèle que les miennes, mais c'est la classe quand même :p).

Pour continuer la journée (il était 10h), après être passé devant une forêt de petites pagodes en pierre, nous avons pris le téléphérique pour rejoindre le mont Song (SongShan). Du sommet, on a pu faire une randonnée super sympa au milieu de paysages magnifiques, composés de falaises abruptes et vertigineuses, afin de rejoindre le monastère des ancêtres, perché à flan de la falaise, culminant à 1512m m d'altitude. Mais 200m avant la fin (ça faisait bien une heure que nous marchions), le pont suspendu qui franchissait le dernier ravin était en travaux donc fermé -_-'. On a donc été bon pour un billet retour par le même chemin.

À l'entrée du site, on est tombé par hasard sur la chinoise qui nous avait aidé à prendre le bus le matin et qui avait justement un direct pour Zhengzhou qui partait dans la foulée, soit à 14h40. Je confesse qu'une fois assis dedans, on s'est endormis avant même que le bus ne quitte le parking, donc les deux heures suivantes sont passées assez vite :p).

Une fois arrivés, nous sommes allés manger un bon plat de lamian (ça faisait 9 heures qu'on n'avait rien avalé !) et on s'est tranquillement dirigé vers notre train, qui décollait à 18h en direction de Yichang. Dans la salle d'attente, j'ai pu mettre à profit mes fraîches compétences de chinois pour discuter avec diverses personnes, ce qui était super sympa :).
Une fois dans le train, on a pu tester ce que voulait dire un train bondé : tous les sièges étaient pris, et il y avait un paquet de personnes qui n'avaient pu acheter qu'un billet debout dans les allées. Du coup on s'est un peu serré afin de tenir à quatre sur une banquette de trois et ainsi permettre à des gens debout de s'assoir. Heureusement, le train s'est bien vidé une heure après, et on a pu récupérer l'intégralité de notre siège. On a encore une fois pu discuter avec nos voisines, et c'était super cool :).

Par contre encore une fois, les train K et T ont beau être super sympa parce qu'il y a plein de monde et une bonne ambiance, les chinois ne comprennent/conçoivent pas qu'après 22h ça peut être cool d'arrêter de crier, de mettre de la musique, d'utiliser QQ avec le son à fond ou encore de marcher sur les gens qui dorment pour accéder à leurs affaires... au final on a du réussir à dormir environs 2h chacun, ce qui n'a clairement pas suffit à rattraper l'absence de nuit précédente.
Petite anecdote, on a passé toute la fin de la nuit à essayer de comprendre pourquoi le train klaxonnait en roulant à 3 heures du matin...

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