Expédition dans le Shangdong (2/2)

Submitted by qperceval on Fri, 06/15/2012 - 05:34

Commençons par vivre minute par minute notre réveil du dimanche matin. 04h: réveil au chant du coq (oui monsieur !). 04h12: réveil 1. 04h15: réveil 2. 04h16: évaluation de la situation extérieure, toujours trop de brume, on se recouche. 04h25: un chinois passe réveiller tout le monde. 04h28: le coq se déchaîne. 04h30: tout l'hôtel est levé. 04h35: bon aller finalement on y va :p. Mais comme prévu, beaucoup trop de brume, donc on a rien vu du tout. Ça valait quand même le coup de se lever rien que pour voir tous les chinois avec leur manteau militaire kaki (louable sur place pour 10 kuais); c'est vrai qu'il faisait assez frisquet...

On a donc directement attaqué la descente en empruntant un petit chemin perdu (mais équipé en escaliers de pierre), qui nous a permis en 3h de rejoindre le pied de la montagne en passant par des paysages magnifique, et sans aucun touristes autour de nous (à part un troupeau de pseudo-bouquetins qui passait par là), merci Lonely Planet !

2 bus et 1h de trajet après, nous voilà de retour à la gare. J'avais vu sur internet qu'il y avait des trains pour Jinan toutes les 10 minutes, mais à priori pas à 10h du matin (et effectivement après vérification il y a bien 43 trains qui font le trajet dans la journée, mais aucun entre 10h15 et 13h35 -_-'). On s'est donc dirigé vers la gare routière pour essayer d'arriver un peu plus tôt à destination.

S'en est suivit une scène qu'on va mettre longtemps à oublier : arrivé sur place, un chinois nous demande où nous allons. Jinan. Il regarde sa montre, prend un air soucieux, décroche son téléphone et nous dit de le suivre rapidement. Bon. 30 mètres plus loin, il nous fait monter dans sa voiture. Ça coûte combien ? 30 kuais. On ne sait ni pour où ni comment, mais le risque financier n'étant pas trop important, on se lance. A commencé une course folle sur les voies rapides de la ville, dans un but toujours inconnu. On a seulement compris la finalité de la chose quand il s'est mis à klaxonner comme un fou en doublant un car. Oui, vous avez bien compris, il était en train d'intercepter le Taishan-Jinan afin que nous puissions monter dedans. On n’y croyait pas. Mais 5 minutes plus tard, on était tranquillement assis à l'intérieur. La classe.

Une fois arrivés (45 minutes plus tard), on a retrouvé une connaissance chinoise qui parlait... chinois. On a ainsi pu tester en live nos connaissances en langue, et je dois dire qu'à deux on s'est pas trop mal débrouillé ! (et sans esprit mal placé s'il vous plaît ^^).
Côté visite, on a pu visiter le parc de l'étang des 5 dragons (Wulongtan Gongyuan, très sympa), le temple Guandi (assez minuscule) et la très sympathique mosquée chinoise de Qingzhen Si. Côté repas, on s’est rapproché du record de Xian en mangeant des brochettes d’agneau à 0.7Y, qui n’était pas mauvaise du tout ^^. Notre "guide" nous a abandonné à ce moment-là, car elle devait aller en cours (un dimanche à 18h, what else ?).

Pour finir "tranquillement" le week-end, nous nous sommes rendus à la Colline des 1000 Bouddhas (Qianfo Shan), afin de faire notre baroud d'honneur en gravissant la colline sacrée de 258m. De là-haut, superbe vue sur la ville qui s'étendait à perte de vue. En chemin, on a pu visiter plusieurs petits temples qui sortaient du moule habituel, et croiser de nombreuses statues de super-bouddhas (ils avaient des capes, comme les super-tomates). À noter un fat-bouddha en or de 28m de haut qui avait vraiment de la gueule.
Pour la descente, on avait prévu de prendre le toboggan, mais il a fermé juste avant qu'on arrive, donc on a encore dû marcher :'(.

Sur le chemin du retour, après l'échec de la quête du bus allant à la gare, nous sommes finalement montés dans un taxi qui passait par là. « Elle est loin la gare ? - Environs 40minutes. Votre train est dans combien de temps ? - 50 minutes. - Ok bah on va tracer. »
Et c'est repartit pour une session Mario Kart sur l'autoroute -_-'. Au final on n'a eu besoin que de 20 minutes pour arriver à destination, donc on lui a même laissé un petit pourboire ^^.

On en a donc profité pour prendre notre temps, mais à cause d'un fléchage approximatif de la gare, on s'est rendu compte après un petit moment qu'on attendait au niveau des arrivées. On a donc traversé toute la gare en courant (17 quais aller-retour) pour finalement arriver sur le quai 3 minutes avant le départ du train. Large.
Contrairement à l'aller, faute de disponibilité de tickets (c'est un peu la guerre pour les train-couchettes), le retour s'est effectué en train rapide, ce qui a seulement pris 3h30, contre 13h à l'aller (mais le double du prix, on ne peut pas tout avoir ^^).

Bilan week-end tip top, encore beaucoup de kilomètres avalés à pied sous un temps assez gris et frais, ce qui était parfait pour la randonnée même si ça manquait un peu de soleil. On était dans tous les cas nettement mieux qu'à Shanghai où la canicule et ses 35°C avait commencé. Toutes les photos sont en lignes (galeries Taishan et Jinan), profitez-en !

A part ça j’ai commandé mon nouveau téléphone, le Xiaomi One, pour la somme de 2000 kuais, donc je vous en dirai des nouvelles dès que je l’aurai reçu ^^.

Prochaine destination Nanjing, départ ce soir !

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